Along the Northumbrian coast, we passed through dozens of coastal hamlets, as well as the industrial cities that line the banks of its major rivers: the Tees, the Wear, the Tyne and the Blyth. The trail rolled across a series of unique and iconic bridges, over grassy sand dunes, and past rocky shores. And every once in a while, just to make sure we don’t lose our climbing legs, the route would launch up a steep cliff face, for a panoramic ride along the bluffs overlooking the sea.

Stunning scenery greeted us as we cycled across North York Moors National Park. On the coast, we gazed out from rugged cliffs, across picturesque bays and beaches. When our route turned westward into the heart of the moors, the big hills provided breathtaking views, coupled with heart-pounding ascents and descents. All the while, we were charmed by the wild birds, as well as the shaggy highland cattle and sheep. 

Cycling up the heart-pounding, cathedral hill in Lincoln, we left the flat marshlands behind. The Wolds of England generally aren’t too steep, but we still had to find our climbing legs again, after four days of biking through pancake-flat fields. In addition to the scenic beauty of the Wolds, we finally reached the North Sea. There, we visited a huge colony of nesting seabirds, including a few adorable Atlantic Puffins.

For hundreds of years, the ancient kingdom of East Anglia was somewhat isolated because of its marshy landscape. Modest monasteries grew into major cathedrals, including some of the most renowned churches in England. Cycling across the former fenlands, we were impressed by the expanses of agriculture, charmed by the wildlife in remaining wetlands, and inspired by the fantastic cathedrals that rise out of the marshes like crowns on top of the cities below.

After an extended break on the outskirts of London, a change of plans had us headed due north towards Cambridge. A brush with the busy traffic near Stansted Airport made us happy to get back into the more rural parts of England. Cycling over rolling green hills, we arrived on the DNA Cycle Path, a fitting approach to a University town renowned for its scientific discoveries.

Biking from Windsor into the heart of London let us experience the many different sides of this great city. From royal parks with ancient trees, to the coronation site for early Anglo-Saxon kings, to a tiny ferry, a giant pedestrian tunnel, and some of the City’s most beloved icons (like, the Tower Bridge), we savored it all. As we watched people go about their business, and chatted with passers by about our journey, we looked forward to a week of R&R in the UK’s biggest city.

We’ve turned due east, heading across the heart of southern England. The terrain is easier, with gently graded rail trails, long, flat stretches along bustling canals, and rolling hills through the North Wessex Downs. From the stately elegance of Bath to lush landscapes dotted with thatched-roof cottages, we’re getting a taste of the English countryside that is best savored from the saddle of a bike.

The legend of King Arthur looms large over the marshes and hills, west of Bridgwater. We cycled across the fabled Avalon Marshes and up the lower slopes of Glastonbury Tor, where names like Arthur, Guinevere, Merlin and Morgan are part of the cultural fabric. In Britain’s smallest city, we saw our first great, English cathedral. Then we descended back to sea level, and the vibrant city that gives Bristol Bay its name.

We began this leg of our journey in a sea-level town near Bristol Bay. But from there, the route pitched steeply uphill, until we were cycling more than 500 m (1,650 ft) in the sky. From the tops of the heath-covered hills in Exmoor National Park, we could see far and wide. After a peaceful night camping in the wild, we descended back to the land of canals and country roads, ending once again near sea level and Bristol Bay.

Our cycling route followed two iconic trails through the Devon countryside. Along the Granite Way, we rode through the peaceful hills of western Dartmoor National Park, sprinkled with sheep herds that included the first newborn lambs of the spring. Descending towards the coast, we then followed the popular Tarka Trail along the River Torridge. The gorgeous weather and gently sloped rail trails made for a near-perfect ride.

After two more days cycling along the Nantes-to-Brest Canal, we’ve turned north into the region of Armorica - the ancient heart of Brittany. Leaving behind the castles of the valley, we rode through the legendary Monts d’Arrée, where Celtic legends arise from the heathlands and mossy forests. In Carhaix-Plouguer, we enjoyed seeing roadside art inspired by the Tour de France, which raced through the center of town in 2018.

Following the Nantes-to-Brest Canal, we’ve cycled into the very heart of Brittany. Along this route, nearly every town has a castle with a story linked to the Dukes of Rohan, once one of the most powerful families in the region. Between towns, the canal was lightly used, so we often had the towpath to ourselves - making for a serene and relaxing ride.

Cycling north from La Rochelle, we soon found ourselves in the historical realm of Brittany. True to its reputation, the region has proven blustery and damp. Bumpy trails through rural woodlands and marshes have put some wear and tear on our biking equipment that required our attention. But we’ve thoroughly enjoyed the scenic beauty of the countryside and coast.

After a week of biking through the pine forests of Landes, France, we emerged onto the marshlands of northern Aquitaine. Alternating between cycling on coastal roads and the levees between drainage canals in the marshes, we enjoyed the change of scenery. It ended with the awe-inspiring views of the medieval towers guarding the harbor entrance, as we cycled into the ancient city of La Rochelle. A rest day in the old part of the city included a chance to celebrate life with our third Carnival parade for the year.