In late October 2019, we made our way from the shores of the Black Sea to Istanbul, Turkey - our staging area to prepare for cycling across Africa. We dove into the challenge of refurbishing most of the major components on our Surly touring bikes. It was’t easy, and we wouldn’t have been able to get it all done without the help of a really great bike shop run by an expert cyclist. We even found some time to visit Istanbul’s historic center, with it’s unique mix of Byzantine, Ottoman and modern influences.

We‘ve reached the conclusion of our European bicycle journey, with our arrival on the shores of the Black Sea. The cobalt-blue waters were a welcome sight, as we celebrated over 9,300 km (5,800 mi) in the saddle. During the final days, we cycled over hills blanketed with mature vineyards, and valleys dotted with monasteries that marked the borderlands between Christian and Ottoman empires.

Over the course of three days, we cycled through parts of Hungary, Croatia and Serbia. Along the EuroVelo 6 route, the three countries have very different personalities. Hungary provided tranquil riding along remote sections of the Danube levee. The route in Croatia was all along busy roads, lined with signs welcoming visitors to each small town. And Serbia was the most developed, including the country’s lively, second biggest city, Novi Sad. 

Continuing our bicycle journey along the levees of the scenic Loire River, we passed several monumental chateaus. The trail has taken us through more areas where caves honeycomb the cliffs, storing the region’s wines and lots of other stuff - including our bikes for a night.

Cycling through the Kingdom of Fife, we circled the region’s tallest hills and its biggest lake. Castles haunted by the ghost of Mary Queen of Scots lined our path, as we negotiated our way through the hills, and back to the coast. There, in the birthplace of golf, we got stuck in a cycling sand trap at St. Andrews Links, one of the oldest golf courses in the world. The rest of the road to Dundee went more smoothly, except for that incident on the bridge over the River Eden. Let’s just say, you don’t want to get too close to a flustered swan.

It didn’t take us long to reach Scotland. As the northernmost nation that we would visit on this tour, Scotland holds a special allure. We’ve finally reached the land of bagpipes, tartans, deep blue lochs, and those adorable highland cattle.

We cycled through Dunbar, birthplace of John Muir, one of the great early leaders of the U.S. conservation movement. The John Muir Way took us most of the rest of the way to Edinburgh. 

The legend of King Arthur looms large over the marshes and hills, west of Bridgwater. We cycled across the fabled Avalon Marshes and up the lower slopes of Glastonbury Tor, where names like Arthur, Guinevere, Merlin and Morgan are part of the cultural fabric. In Britain’s smallest city, we saw our first great, English cathedral. Then we descended back to sea level, and the vibrant city that gives Bristol Bay its name.

Cycling north from La Rochelle, we soon found ourselves in the historical realm of Brittany. True to its reputation, the region has proven blustery and damp. Bumpy trails through rural woodlands and marshes have put some wear and tear on our biking equipment that required our attention. But we’ve thoroughly enjoyed the scenic beauty of the countryside and coast.

What equipment will we take with us? A lot will be the same as what we used to bike across the USA. But there are a few things we thought we could improve, and some we wanted to get more experience with for future trips that might be more remote. Check out our gear list.