All in Bike Travel
Our cycling route followed two iconic trails through the Devon countryside. Along the Granite Way, we rode through the peaceful hills of western Dartmoor National Park, sprinkled with sheep herds that included the first newborn lambs of the spring. Descending towards the coast, we then followed the popular Tarka Trail along the River Torridge. The gorgeous weather and gently sloped rail trails made for a near-perfect ride.
On a blustery, rainy day we bundled up our cycling gear and boarded the ferry for England. We lingered in Plymouth for a day, visiting famous sights like Hoe Park and the Barbican neighborhood and soaking up the maritime ambiance. But the Tors of Dartmoor beckoned us. So we rode our bikes northward, up the Plym River and into the rugged, granite hills.
After two more days cycling along the Nantes-to-Brest Canal, we’ve turned north into the region of Armorica - the ancient heart of Brittany. Leaving behind the castles of the valley, we rode through the legendary Monts d’Arrée, where Celtic legends arise from the heathlands and mossy forests. In Carhaix-Plouguer, we enjoyed seeing roadside art inspired by the Tour de France, which raced through the center of town in 2018.
Following the Nantes-to-Brest Canal, we’ve cycled into the very heart of Brittany. Along this route, nearly every town has a castle with a story linked to the Dukes of Rohan, once one of the most powerful families in the region. Between towns, the canal was lightly used, so we often had the towpath to ourselves - making for a serene and relaxing ride.
The Loire River in France is considered one of the great bicycle routes of Europe. Our itinerary postpones cycling the length of the river until August, but we got a taste of the fabled Loire as we headed north towards the English Channel. We cycled more than 60 km along the river, from its mouth to Nantes, the former seat of the Dukes of Brittany. We thoroughly enjoyed the scenic southern bank, and saw an amazing sight as we entered the city...
Cycling north from La Rochelle, we soon found ourselves in the historical realm of Brittany. True to its reputation, the region has proven blustery and damp. Bumpy trails through rural woodlands and marshes have put some wear and tear on our biking equipment that required our attention. But we’ve thoroughly enjoyed the scenic beauty of the countryside and coast.
After a week of biking through the pine forests of Landes, France, we emerged onto the marshlands of northern Aquitaine. Alternating between cycling on coastal roads and the levees between drainage canals in the marshes, we enjoyed the change of scenery. It ended with the awe-inspiring views of the medieval towers guarding the harbor entrance, as we cycled into the ancient city of La Rochelle. A rest day in the old part of the city included a chance to celebrate life with our third Carnival parade for the year.
Heading up France’s Atlantic coast, we continued cycling through endless pine forests, and rode by the foot of Europe’s highest sand dune. But the highlight of this leg of our trip was a campsite in the forest, just a stones throw from the dunes. There were no other people in sight as we strolled along the beach. Falling asleep, all we could hear were the waves and the wind in the pines.
Rocky coastlines, pristine beaches, and one of Europe’s biggest forests were the backdrops for our route as we cycled up the French coast. We’ve left the bigger cities behind, for a series of laid-back beach towns. We’re a little bit ahead of the spring tourist rush, so things are pretty quiet - unless you’re looking to book a hotel room on a Saturday night.
We’ve reached the northern edge of Spain. In one big day we biked over the Pyrenees mountains. Narrow valleys on the way up sheltered us from the wind. we passed by snow-capped peaks, followed by a wonderfully fast descent through emerald-green pastures inhabited by wooly sheep. From there, we cruised along a riverbank into France, and to the gloriously blue Atlantic Ocean.
We had been looking forward to a rest day in Pamplona, Spain. But we found ourselves cycling into strong headwinds, requiring an extra effort to get there. In Pamplona, most stores and restaurants were closed for San José day (i.e., Father’s Day). Nonetheless, we were still able to enjoy visiting many of the city’s famous sights.
We’re back on the Camino de Santiago. But now we’re biking on the French Route, heading away from Santiago. The thorns in our tires - probably acquired back in Portugal - continued to plague us by causing flat tires. A poor routing decision ended up sending us over 60 km on gravel roads. And we’re pretty sure we discovered the steepest hills in Spain, because if they were any steeper, you just wouldn’t be able to get up them at all. It’s been a busy few days.
After nine days biking the Camino de Santiago (Vía de la Plata route), we are now leaving the Camino to head northeast on EuroVelo 1. The route takes us across the vast agricultural plateau of Castilla y León, where you can bike for many kilometers without seeing a single tree.
On 9-10 March 2019 we biked across the remaining mountains of the Cordillera Central, and descended onto the high plateau of Castilla y León. The contrast in terrain, scenery, land use and architecture between the ring of mountains and the plateau was striking.
