The day started with only a short riding day planned, but would end up being one of our most eventful days of the trip. We were hearing more and more about the coronavirus which was sweeping around the world, causing increasing concern. There had only been a couple cases of the virus reported in all of Ethiopia, but nonetheless, it was having a large impact on how we were perceived and treated as foreigners. Holding onto our dream of crossing Africa by bike was becoming increasing difficult as the world became frozen with fear over an invisible, but very real threat.  Sometimes you don’t realize how much you have until it is taken away. This day would leave us with indelible memories of how privileged we have been to be able to travel the world on bikes. 

Some stretches of road have become legends in the cycling community. The crossing of the Blue Nile Gorge in Ethiopia is one of those rides. It’s deep. It’s steep. And the high-altitude sun will sap your strength. Cycling across the Blue Nile Gorge with a fully-loaded touring bike will test your mettle. It’s not for sissies. So of course, we had to give it a go. We wanted to see the spectacular scenery, but also to test ourselves, and prove we could do it. Our legs and our lungs were pushed to the limit, but it was totally worth it to conquer the second-biggest canyon ride in the world.

Cycling south through Ethiopia, we were intrigued that in many of the towns everyone would specialize in one, single type of business. There was the garlic town, the cowhide town, the charcoal town, the wood post producing town, the moonshine town, the chili pepper town, the bamboo furniture town, etc, etc. We wondered if this was because someone in a town figured out a good way to make money, and everybody else soon got in on the act. Over the next few days, as we rode from town to town, we enjoyed seeing how each community had carved out its own niche, and contributed to Ethiopia’s rich heritage.

Our cycling route brought us to the shores of Lake Tana, Ethiopia’s largest body of water. From the city of Bahir Dar on the southern tip of the lake, we set out by boat to explore the region’s rich wildlife, and discover the mysteries of two Ethiopian Orthodox monasteries. Along the way we saw hippos, Nile monitor lizards, African fish eagles, and 40 other species of tropical birds. Fishermen paddled by in reed boats whose designs haven’t changed for nearly 3,000 years. And with the help of a local guide, we learned how the remote, ancient churches are still at the heart of Ethiopian culture and religious life.

After a 10-day rest in the mountaintop city of Gonder, we were eager to get back on the road. Accompanied by our new cycling companions, a couple from France, we headed south through Ethiopia’s teff heartland. Fertile plains were punctuated by occasional mountain ridges, providing a variety of interesting scenery - including the giant stone hoodoos, with names like Devil’s Nose and the Finger of God.

For several years we have wanted to trek in the Simien Mountains. Once we began cycling in Ethiopia, we could make that dream come true. In the company of two other cyclists, we set off on a 3-day journey across the Roof of Africa. Along the way we encountered several groups of the famed Gelada monkeys, as well as several other species unique to the Ethiopian Highlands. And it all had the backdrop of stunning mountains, rugged cliffs, and heart-pounding ascents reaching more than 4,000 m (13,350 ft) into the sky.

Entering Ethiopia, we left the flatlands of Sudan behind. Over the next couple of days we would climb rapidly onto the Ethiopian Highlands, ascending nearly 3,500 m (11,250 ft). Because of the unique challenges Ethiopia presents, many have called it the most challenging country in the world to bike tour. It is not for the faint of heart. Along the way we encountered breathtaking scenery, massive hills, a strong military presence, some friendly and not-so-friendly locals, rock-throwing kids, and a collection of castles right out of a storybook.

Our days in Sudan came to an end with a quick, 2-day run through the eastern edge of Dinder National Park to the border with Ethiopia. As we discovered, border areas between African countries can have an air of danger. We encountered a protest, illegal woodcutting, mangled roads, and some sketchy customs officials at the border crossing.

We were excited to visit Khartoum, Sudan, and to see cultural highlights like the National Museum and the Sufi Dervish sunset ceremony. But our enjoyment was tempered when the Ethiopian Embassy in Khartoum refused to process our visa application. It would take several more days of riding through increasingly oppressive heat to reach the city of Qadarif and re-apply. We started to wonder, would they ever let us into Ethiopia?

Everything about Sudan is much lower-key than Egypt. It’s quieter, less crowded, slower paced, and overall just more relaxing to cycle in Sudan. We reveled in the tranquility of the desert, and the soft-spoken hospitality of the Sudanese people we met. The biggest factor out on the road was the fierce desert wind, which cut our cycling speeds in half, and covered everything we own with sand. 

We spent Christmas and New Year’s Eve 2019 cycling through the land of the pharaohs. With stops in Abydos, Luxor and Aswan, we had the chance to visit some of ancient Egypt’s most renowned cultural sights, including intricately decorated temples and tombs.

Why tea? Because an invitation to tea is a great opportunity to reach across cultural gaps, and really start to get to know people. We’ve only been in Egypt a short time, but we’ve already had several wonderful, tea-based experiences. So, the advice holds. Always accept an invitation to tea.

We’re on our way! After considering several alternatives, we settled on the route that follows the Nile River on its western bank. It’s densely populated, so we rode through a steady chorus of friendly shouts of, “Hello, welcome to Egypt!” An early adventure involved a ferry ride from which our bikes narrowly escaped sliding into the Nile River. And between towns, the agricultural landscape of the river valley provided a lush, green backdrop to our journey.

As we begin our adventure of cycling across Africa, one of the first orders of business is to get permission to be here. The visa application process can vary quite a lot among countries. As a result, it was really helpful to do some research in advance, to have some idea about how to secure the required visas before jumping on our bikes and pedaling towards the horizon. We’ve now secured our first two visas, and the processes could hardly have been more different.