Our cycling route brought us to the shores of Lake Tana, Ethiopia’s largest body of water. From the city of Bahir Dar on the southern tip of the lake, we set out by boat to explore the region’s rich wildlife, and discover the mysteries of two Ethiopian Orthodox monasteries. Along the way we saw hippos, Nile monitor lizards, African fish eagles, and 40 other species of tropical birds. Fishermen paddled by in reed boats whose designs haven’t changed for nearly 3,000 years. And with the help of a local guide, we learned how the remote, ancient churches are still at the heart of Ethiopian culture and religious life.

After a 10-day rest in the mountaintop city of Gonder, we were eager to get back on the road. Accompanied by our new cycling companions, a couple from France, we headed south through Ethiopia’s teff heartland. Fertile plains were punctuated by occasional mountain ridges, providing a variety of interesting scenery - including the giant stone hoodoos, with names like Devil’s Nose and the Finger of God.

Entering Ethiopia, we left the flatlands of Sudan behind. Over the next couple of days we would climb rapidly onto the Ethiopian Highlands, ascending nearly 3,500 m (11,250 ft). Because of the unique challenges Ethiopia presents, many have called it the most challenging country in the world to bike tour. It is not for the faint of heart. Along the way we encountered breathtaking scenery, massive hills, a strong military presence, some friendly and not-so-friendly locals, rock-throwing kids, and a collection of castles right out of a storybook.

We were excited to visit Khartoum, Sudan, and to see cultural highlights like the National Museum and the Sufi Dervish sunset ceremony. But our enjoyment was tempered when the Ethiopian Embassy in Khartoum refused to process our visa application. It would take several more days of riding through increasingly oppressive heat to reach the city of Qadarif and re-apply. We started to wonder, would they ever let us into Ethiopia?

Everything about Sudan is much lower-key than Egypt. It’s quieter, less crowded, slower paced, and overall just more relaxing to cycle in Sudan. We reveled in the tranquility of the desert, and the soft-spoken hospitality of the Sudanese people we met. The biggest factor out on the road was the fierce desert wind, which cut our cycling speeds in half, and covered everything we own with sand. 

We spent Christmas and New Year’s Eve 2019 cycling through the land of the pharaohs. With stops in Abydos, Luxor and Aswan, we had the chance to visit some of ancient Egypt’s most renowned cultural sights, including intricately decorated temples and tombs.

Why tea? Because an invitation to tea is a great opportunity to reach across cultural gaps, and really start to get to know people. We’ve only been in Egypt a short time, but we’ve already had several wonderful, tea-based experiences. So, the advice holds. Always accept an invitation to tea.