For several years we have wanted to trek in the Simien Mountains. Once we began cycling in Ethiopia, we could make that dream come true. In the company of two other cyclists, we set off on a 3-day journey across the Roof of Africa. Along the way we encountered several groups of the famed Gelada monkeys, as well as several other species unique to the Ethiopian Highlands. And it all had the backdrop of stunning mountains, rugged cliffs, and heart-pounding ascents reaching more than 4,000 m (13,350 ft) into the sky.

Entering Ethiopia, we left the flatlands of Sudan behind. Over the next couple of days we would climb rapidly onto the Ethiopian Highlands, ascending nearly 3,500 m (11,250 ft). Because of the unique challenges Ethiopia presents, many have called it the most challenging country in the world to bike tour. It is not for the faint of heart. Along the way we encountered breathtaking scenery, massive hills, a strong military presence, some friendly and not-so-friendly locals, rock-throwing kids, and a collection of castles right out of a storybook.

Our days in Sudan came to an end with a quick, 2-day run through the eastern edge of Dinder National Park to the border with Ethiopia. As we discovered, border areas between African countries can have an air of danger. We encountered a protest, illegal woodcutting, mangled roads, and some sketchy customs officials at the border crossing.

We were excited to visit Khartoum, Sudan, and to see cultural highlights like the National Museum and the Sufi Dervish sunset ceremony. But our enjoyment was tempered when the Ethiopian Embassy in Khartoum refused to process our visa application. It would take several more days of riding through increasingly oppressive heat to reach the city of Qadarif and re-apply. We started to wonder, would they ever let us into Ethiopia?

Everything about Sudan is much lower-key than Egypt. It’s quieter, less crowded, slower paced, and overall just more relaxing to cycle in Sudan. We reveled in the tranquility of the desert, and the soft-spoken hospitality of the Sudanese people we met. The biggest factor out on the road was the fierce desert wind, which cut our cycling speeds in half, and covered everything we own with sand.