All in Wildlife
The road from Big Sur to Southern California took us through a series of transitions - from wetter to drier, mountains to beaches, and wilderness to one of the largest metropolises in the world. Landslides and storms slowed our progress. But each day of cycling yielded more farms and pasture. And those eventually gave way to tourist-friendly shops, waterfront villas, and the 150 miles of white sand beach of surfers’ dreams that followed.
Cycling southward into California, we entered the realm of the coastal redwood forests. Dark, wet, awe inspiring, and infused with an ancient majesty, these temperate rainforests are a highlight of any journey on the Pacific Coast Bike Route. We pedaled through groves of trees as tall as skyscrapers, and trunks big enough to drive through. But the scenery was not all forest. The route passed sea cliffs, sandy coves, and even the metropolis of San Francisco, ensuring that each day was an adventure.
The first 100 miles of the Pacific Coast Bike Route in Oregon brought back a flood of memories, as we cycled along roads we had traveled just four years earlier. Yet as we continued southward, the ocean cliffs, secluded beaches, and lush forests seemed to grow even more stunning with each mile. Even the onset of the rainy season in the temperate rainforest couldn’t dampen our spirits - as a series of storms showed off the fierce beauty of the Pacific Ocean.
Golden leaves and chilly temperatures signaled the arrival of fall as we departed from Libby, Montana. We cycled westward in hopes of reaching the milder Pacific Coast for the winter. But the Northern Cascades stood in our way, and we had to make it over the mountains before snow closed the high passes for the season. As we approached the Cascades, we cycled through the dry forests and open grasslands of the Okanogan region, following the path of several big rivers. And when we arrived in the mountains, good luck provided us with unseasonably warm and dry weather. We had a fabulous ride through some of the Northwest’s most scenic landscapes, without the hassle of summer crowds. In the end, we couldn’t have asked for a better ride.
We cycled for several hundred miles along the Rocky Mountain Trench, a deep, nearly straight, 1,000-mile rift between two of the region’s major mountain ranges. Along the way we discovered the headwaters of the Columbia River, disrupted a secret plot by a small band of wild turkeys, and eventually crossed the border back into the United States. With some deft planning, we also managed to piece together enough dentist appointments (in multiple cities) to finally take care of a nagging toothache. The mixture of gorgeous scenery and logistical complications ensured that each day was both hectic and an adventure on the way to Libby, Montana.
Heading east from Prince George, BC, we climbed steadily into the Northern Rocky Mountains. Before long we were cycling through some of the most majestic and stunning mountains we had ever seen. Power outages, campground closures, and a toothache had us constantly changing our plans. But each day we were rewarded with a sense of wonder at the vast wilderness of rock, ice and forests at the top of the world along the Icefields Parkway in Jasper and Banff National Parks.
The Yellowhead Highway across central British Columbia had a completely different feel than the roads we had cycled farther north. We now biked through small towns every 20-25 miles. Each town had its own personality, with monuments linked to its history. Meanwhile the dense conifer forests were replaced by ever-larger hayfields, characteristic of the Fraser Plateau. Contact with other travelers, a couple of wildlife encounters, and a few mechanical surprises kept us on our toes, ensuring that each day was an adventure.
Cycling southward across British Columbia, we entered another region of vast and sparsely populated wilderness. With only a couple of small towns, this 550 mile route is known for its abundant salmon and bears. We were lucky enough to see both, as well as watching the landscape slowly transition from boreal forest to habitats more familiar in the lower 48 states - while the dramatic, ice-covered peaks of the coastal mountain range provided stunning views to the west.
Our first couple of weeks in Canada were full of adventure. Cycling along an ancient fault line between snow-capped peaks and Yukon’s rugged, central plateau, we enjoyed some of the most breathtaking scenery we had seen so far on our trip. Numerous encounters with wild creatures, plus intermittent battles with wind and rain ensured that our days were never dull. And a float down the fabled Yukon River provided the perfect finale for this leg of our bicycle tour.
Our bicycle tour through western Canada was full of surprises. But none were more thrilling than these three close encounters with wild bears. It is moments like these that make wilderness cycling such an amazing experience.
As we cycled out of Fairbanks towards Canada, kitschy tourist stops soon gave way to the wide open spaces of Alaskan wilderness. Smoky air from forest fires and the onset of almost daily rain presented some challenges. But the Alaska Highway still delivered majestic landscapes inhabited by fascinating wildlife, as well as a few welcome surprises.
We wanted to savor the experience of bicycle travel in the Far North, so we took seven days to cycle from Coldfoot to Fairbanks, Alaska. Multiple mountain ridges, clouds of mosquitos, forest fires, and a few missteps in procuring water all presented challenges. But the wildlife, landscapes, and sheer scope of the wilderness along the Dalton Highway were spectacular - a true cycling adventure.
Our Americas cycling adventure began with the 240 mile ride down the northernmost road in Alaska, the Dalton Highway (a.k.a., the Haul Road). With no traveler’s services, it’s considered one of the most remote roads in the world. We cycled across stormy tundra, the magnificent Brooks Range Mountains, and finally saw our first tree on our fourth day of cycling. Surrounded by incredible wildlife, we reveled in the vast expanses and solitude of the journey.
Getting to the start of any long bicycle tour can be an adventure in itself, and our arrival in Deadhorse, Alaska, was no exception. But after several hair-raising moments, we finally landed in one of the northernmost towns in the world. With an allure similar to an industrial colony on another planet, Deadhorse’s unique character was fascinating to observe. A quick dip in the Arctic Ocean and the chance to wander out on the northern sea ice, followed by close-up views of spectacular arctic birds, set the stage for our next adventure - pedaling southward on the Dalton Highway.
During 40 days in Anchorage, Alaska, we explored the city’s extensive network of bike trails. Ranging from paved paths along urban streams to root-infested single-tracks in the hills, we never tired of the natural beauty and varied terrain available for cycling in Anchorage. Seeing a few moose was certainly a highlight. But there were other surprises, like airplanes flying so low overhead you felt as if you could reach up and touch them. Next we’ll fly up to Prudhoe Bay at the very top of Alaska, and begin heading south by bike.
