The first 100 miles of the Pacific Coast Bike Route in Oregon brought back a flood of memories, as we cycled along roads we had traveled just four years earlier. Yet as we continued southward, the ocean cliffs, secluded beaches, and lush forests seemed to grow even more stunning with each mile. Even the onset of the rainy season in the temperate rainforest couldn’t dampen our spirits - as a series of storms showed off the fierce beauty of the Pacific Ocean.

Upon arriving at the Pacific Coast, we had entered a new world. We now cycled through the most densely populated part of Washington, albeit on more rural, secondary roads. Our route constantly rose and fell, as we traversed the stony ridges that form the backbone of Puget Sound’s islands. Evenings were marked by blazing orange sunsets. Mornings were shrouded in mist. And spooky sounds in the forest at night heralded the approach of Halloween, as we made our way south towards Oregon.

We cycled for several hundred miles along the Rocky Mountain Trench, a deep, nearly straight, 1,000-mile rift between two of the region’s major mountain ranges. Along the way we discovered the headwaters of the Columbia River, disrupted a secret plot by a small band of wild turkeys, and eventually crossed the border back into the United States. With some deft planning, we also managed to piece together enough dentist appointments (in multiple cities) to finally take care of a nagging toothache. The mixture of gorgeous scenery and logistical complications ensured that each day was both hectic and an adventure on the way to Libby, Montana.