Cycling the Carretera Austral, Part 1: Caleta Tortél to Puerto Río Tranquilo, Chile
As we cycled northward through Patagonia, there was one road we knew we must ride - the alluring Carretera Austral (‘Southern Highway’ in English). Although the road was ‘completed’ in 2003, much of it remains unpaved, linking tiny villages that still feel rustic and remote. We entered the Carretera Austral from Tortél, a picturesque village on stilts by the sea. Along the way we were surrounded by Andean peaks swathed in snow and ice, which wrung moisture out of the clouds that nourished the temperate rainforests growing thick on the mountain slopes.
Cycling Patagonia: Punta Arenas to Caleta Tortél, Chile
As we sailed across the Strait of Magellan, we left Tierra del Fuego behind. But we still had a lot of Patagonia ahead of us. After a quiet Christmas in the City of Red Roofs, we cycled back onto the Patagonian pampas - encountering some of the hemisphere’s biggest birds, and fields bursting with the pinks, yellows and purples of flowers in bloom. Then three days on stormy seas among the fjords of southern Chile brought us to a tiny town in a steep-sided cove, with no regular streets or sidewalks. Instead there were five miles of boardwalks, and the main part of town lay at the top of 20 flights of wooden stairs.
Cycling Colombia Part 3: Medellín to Ibagué
We departed Medellín in the company of a couple of hundred other cyclists, all climbing a big mountain on a Sunday just for fun. The descent brought us into Colombia’s coffee heartland, but we still had to cycle up and over the Central Andes. We climbed up to a picturesque mountain town, and then over the 11,083 ft (3,378 m) Alto de La Línea pass - one of the highest in the country - where forests of wax palms (Colombia’s national tree) grow among the clouds. From there we dropped back down to the Music Capital of Colombia, and spent a couple of weeks enjoying the Colombian National Folk Festival, where groups from all over the country come to celebrate their cultural heritage.
Cycling Colombia Part 2: Caucasia to Medellín
Our ascent into the Andes Mountains began gently, as we cycled upstream along one of Colombia’s biggest rivers. But soon enough we were climbing out of the valley, and discovered just how formidable the Andes can be. After several days of cycling through a deep canyon flowing with waterfalls, forests shrouded in clouds, and high mountain pastures, we had gained 9,000 ft (2,745 m) in elevation. From there we plunged into Medellín in a single, long and grueling day - where a rest in The City of Eternal Spring rejuvenated us for the road ahead.