The southwestern desert threw everything it had at us as we cycled Segment 9 of the Western Wildlands bikepacking route (WWR). Heat, dehydration, thorns, overgrown trails, steep mountains, tarantulas, barbed wire and even rain were among the challenges we faced on the road south of Globe Arizona. Along the way we relished the beauty of desert mountain vistas, sun-baked river valleys, unfamiliar plants and animals, and the Wild West enthusiasm of a town called Tombstone. Then, after 2,800 miles (4,500 km) of cycling, we celebrated with a high-five. We reached the US border with Mexico!

There’s much more to Arizona than saguaro studded deserts and the Grand Canyon. Segment 8 of the Western Wildlands Bikepacking Route (WWR) took us through cool pine forests, remote volcanic fields, and along the 200-mile cliffs of the Mogollon Rim. As we cycled across these lesser-known landscapes, we found ourselves endlessly surprised and charmed by the beauty and diversity of the state. It’s no wonder that this segment of the WWR is the one most likely to leave cyclists exclaiming, “I didn’t know Arizona was like this!”

Many places which have very little water are the same places that have the deepest, most awesome canyons carved by rivers. On Section 7 of the Western Wildlands Bikepacking Route (WWR), we were challenged by cycling across arid lands with no access to water for several days. As a reward, we cycled to the Grand Canyon - a mile deep and up to 18 miles wide. But that was only one of several stunning canyons, most of which are less visited by tourists. They’re also the domain of one of North America’s rarest and largest birds - the California Condor.