It took just one day to cycle between two of Central Europe’s most enchanting capitals. But the route from Vienna to Bratislava was not all smooth sailing. We had to maneuver around a number of obstacles along the way. It was worth it, because we thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Bratislava, a truly vibrant and lovely city with a unique history.

We cycled along the treeless levees that border the Danube River in gorgeous, cool-but-sunny conditions. It was the perfect way to arrive in Vienna, the sumptuous center of the Austro-Hungarian empire. We spent several days there, soaking up the Hapsburg legacy, and sampling the city’s amazing culture.

There’s a reason the Danube River route through Austria is so popular with cyclists. We rode through a string of picture-perfect, riverside villages via mostly quiet, dedicated bike paths. And by sheer luck, we found ourselves at the Regattaverein as the national teams were warming up for the 2019 World Rowing Championships. 

We’ve left Germany via the beautiful, baroque city of Passau. Our arrival in Austria brings our country-tally to seven for the trip. But Austria threw us a curve-ball, with three ferry crossings of the Danube River in one day. The route from Passau, Germany to Vienna, Austria is one of the most popular cycling trails in Europe, giving us lots of opportunities to meet other cyclists. One new friend from Holland let us try out his recumbent bicycle.