We cycled for several hundred miles along the Rocky Mountain Trench, a deep, nearly straight, 1,000-mile rift between two of the region’s major mountain ranges. Along the way we discovered the headwaters of the Columbia River, disrupted a secret plot by a small band of wild turkeys, and eventually crossed the border back into the United States. With some deft planning, we also managed to piece together enough dentist appointments (in multiple cities) to finally take care of a nagging toothache. The mixture of gorgeous scenery and logistical complications ensured that each day was both hectic and an adventure on the way to Libby, Montana.

Heading east from Prince George, BC, we climbed steadily into the Northern Rocky Mountains. Before long we were cycling through some of the most majestic and stunning mountains we had ever seen. Power outages, campground closures, and a toothache had us constantly changing our plans. But each day we were rewarded with a sense of wonder at the vast wilderness of rock, ice and forests at the top of the world along the Icefields Parkway in Jasper and Banff National Parks.

The Yellowhead Highway across central British Columbia had a completely different feel than the roads we had cycled farther north. We now biked through small towns every 20-25 miles. Each town had its own personality, with monuments linked to its history. Meanwhile the dense conifer forests were replaced by ever-larger hayfields, characteristic of the Fraser Plateau. Contact with other travelers, a couple of wildlife encounters, and a few mechanical surprises kept us on our toes, ensuring that each day was an adventure.

Cycling southward across British Columbia, we entered another region of vast and sparsely populated wilderness. With only a couple of small towns, this 550 mile route is known for its abundant salmon and bears. We were lucky enough to see both, as well as watching the landscape slowly transition from boreal forest to habitats more familiar in the lower 48 states - while the dramatic, ice-covered peaks of the coastal mountain range provided stunning views to the west.

We began this segment of our trip by cycling across the Southern Lakes district of the Yukon Territory - an area of long, narrow, picturesque lakes that feed the upper reaches of the Yukon River. The few towns we passed were small, with extended stretches of wild forests in between. But before reaching the village of Watson Lake, we crossed a continental divide that left the Yukon River behind.