Cycling Colombia Part 5: Neiva to Bruselas… to Pitalito

We continued cycling southwards, away from the bigger Colombian cities of the north. With each passing mile, the landscape around us became more rural. Gradually we ascended onto higher ridges, with gorgeous views of the Magdalena River below. Small towns, off the beaten tourist path, rewarded us with tales of witches, brave heroines, celebrations of freedom, and holy blessings for travelers. But just after we cycled over the highest mountain ridge, disaster struck - requiring us to rethink all of our plans.