29 April - 1 May 2019

Hungerford to Reading (29 April 2019, 47.4 km, 29.5 mi)

It was a perfect day for getting back on the road. We couldn’t have asked for better riding conditions: sunny with light winds and highs in the 60s F (17 C). This kind of weather draws you outside, and gives you energy. 

We continued to bike along (or parallel to) the Kennet-and-Avon Canal for about 15 km, as we slowly descended out of the North Wessex Downs. Much like the past few days, the route wound through quaint villages, past elegant country estates, and ambled along the canal on a dirt and gravel path. At the town of Newbury, the canal ends by emptying into the Kennet River, which we followed closely all the way to Reading.

We were lucky that we had planned a relatively short biking day, because there were a lot of things to slow us down along the way. In addition to the typically bumpy gravel along towpath, we had to pass through a whole lot of gates that are set up at road crossings to keep vehicles off the path. We often had to come to a complete stop to open the gates, pass through, then close them again behind us. There were even two obstacles where we had to take the panniers off our bikes and lift them over. The first was a fallen tree that was probably knocked down by the recent wind. The second was a gate that was clearly not designed with cyclists in mind. The only way to get through was to go up and over.

Another effect of getting into more densely populated areas is that we encountered a lot more people on the trails. As a result, we also had lots of people along the path asking us about our trip: Are you going far? Where are you headed? Brilliant! Where did you start? Blimey! Some of them think we’re crazy. Others say they would like to do a trip like this some day. I hope they get the chance.

Near Theale we came across a picnic table - a very rare object in England. Unlike the French, who seem to be very dedicated picnickers, the English either don’t picnic very much, or they use blankets on the grass. Anyway, this table was very clean and in great shape. For the first time in a while, we stopped to enjoy a picnic lunch by the side of the trail.

We had a rough time finding a hotel in Reading. The first one we went to didn’t look very appealing from the outside. It was in a very old building, and it looked like the windows wouldn’t be particularly soundproof for keeping out the city noise. So we moved on. The second hotel couldn’t provide us with secure bike storage, and wouldn’t let us take the bikes up to the room. That was a no go. You can tell by the way the locals lock up their bikes that Reading, like most big cities, has a bicycle theft problem. 

Third time was the charm. We ended up at the Ibis Hotel. Their standard double room is small, but the internet speed was very good - at least until later in the evening, when the usage by all of the hotel guests slowed it way down.

In the afternoon, we took a walk around town. We wandered through the main shopping district and pedestrian mall. Then we headed over to the Abbey Quarter. The city has extensive signage about a historic abbey that was built in the 1100s. The abbey dominated the city landscape and culture until the 1600s, when it was destroyed during the British civil war. It was apparently one of the most important abbeys in the country before it was demolished. The ruins are picturesque. But based on what remains, it’s not easy to imagine the grand, original structure.

Reading to Windsor (30 April 2019,41.1 km, 25.5 mi)

One thing that’s become clear since we arrived in England is that there aren’t going to be any signs indicating which trails are part of the EuroVelo network. We got used to seeing EuroVelo signs along the trails in Spain and France. Even when the trails had a national origin (like Velodyssée in France), their signs would include a EuroVelo emblem and number. Not so in England. Here, you need to know which part of the National Cycle Network has been incorporated into the EuroVelo route you want to follow. We rode on National Cycle Route 3 from Plymouth to Bristol. In Bristol we switched to Route 4. We’ll be on Route 4 all the way to London.

Not long after leaving Reading, we finally reached the River Thames, where the River Kennet empties into it. Ta da! The river is surprisingly small, here. But it still feels like a big milestone.

For the final 10 km of the ride, the route closely followed the River Thames, crossing through meadows and sports fields for Eaton College. The town of Eaton, itself, is quite small. But riding down its main street, lined with British flags, it makes quite an impression. Apparently the buildings in town are almost all businesses, mostly serving the school, with very few residences. Perhaps that’s why it feels small - hardly anyone lives there outside of the school.

The approach into Windsor from Eaton, by crossing a pedestrian bridge, is genuinely impressive. Windsor Castle, perched on top of a hill, dominates the view. Swans float by on the slowly moving river, and historic-looking brick and stone buildings cluster at the castle’s feet. You can feel the proximity of royalty in the air. We booked a room in the Travelodge Hotel, right in the heart of Windsor’s shopping district, with a view of the castle from our window. Very cool.

The castle is definitely an active royal venue. Queen Elizabeth spends nearly all of her weekends here, and sometimes meets with people or hosts state dinners in the castle as well. Her grandchildren, Prince Harry and his wife Meghan live on the estate, in Frogmore Cottage. 

We took an evening stroll around the castle walls to the park that nestles up against the castle’s southern gate, and to the start of the 3-mile Long Walk, which serves as the ceremonial entrance to the palace. We were bemused to see that the Long Walk was being used by a running club, with dozens of their members streaming up and down the sides of the Walk and the coach shouting out their laps. It made the royal park seem more down-to-earth, and part of the community.

Layover Day in Windsor (1 May 2019) 

Well, if you’re going to visit at least one castle in England, Windsor seems like a good choice. It has a long and storied history, dating back to the era of the Norman Conquest in the 1100s. Plus, it is still used regularly by the royal family. We decided to take an extra day in Windsor to tour the castle and the royal state rooms. Everything we heard about visiting the castle said that afternoons were a little less busy, so we headed over right after lunch.

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