Cycling Across Guatemala: In the Land of Volcanos
23 November - 9 December 2023
23 November - Panajachel to Las Cruces (8.4 mi, 13.5 km)
24 November - Las Cruces to Patzún (13.4 mi, 21.6 km)
25 November - Patzún to Antigua (25.2 mi, 40.6 km)
26 Nov-3 Dec - Layover in Antigua
4 December - Antigua to Guatemala City (26.9 mi, 43.3 km)
5-9 December - Layover in Guatemala City
The Climb Out of the Caldera
As mentioned in our previous blog post, the Pacific coast of Central America is chock full of volcanos. Guatemala has 37 named volcanos, of which three are currently active (as in, they spew ash and molten rock pretty much all the time). In addition, more than half of the country’s volcanos are known to have erupted within the past 10,000 years - the blink of an eye in geologic time.
One of the greatest volcanic explosions to have ever occurred in Guatemala was the eruption that formed Lake Atitlán. Millions of tons of earth were blown away, leaving a caldera that stretches nearly 15 miles across (24 km), and more than 3,350 ft deep (1,020m). Lake Atitlán fills only about a third of that depth. So to leave the vicinity of the lake, we had to climb the rest of the way out of the caldera.
Fortunately, we would depart via the town of Panajachel. From there, the climb would be much less steep than the white-knuckle descent we experienced on our approach to the lake. But it is still a tough climb on a bike. Over the course of just eight miles (13 km) we would ascend more than 2,200 ft (670 m), with multiple short sections where the gradient approached 20%. That is not the kind of ride profile one hopes for after a long break off the bike. With our legs somewhat soft from hanging out in various lakeside towns for the past week, we decided to keep the distance short and, hopefully, allow ourselves to enjoy being back on the bikes.
It turned out to be a fabulous day for a ride - sunny, but quite cool in the abundant shade provided by trees and cliffs along the road. As we rapidly gained elevation, the views back towards Lake Atitlán were absolutely magnificent.
Cycling up to the rim of the Lake Atitlán caldera. This is the view back towards the lake, with San Pedro Volcano in the background, and the town of Panajachel in the valley below. National Hwy 1, Dept of Sololá, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Along the way we spotted this extraordinary caterpillar. Leucanella viridescens has no common name. But its thick forest of bright yellow, stinging spines certainly made an impression we won’t forget. Approaching Las Cruces, Dept Of Sololá, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Staying the night in the small town of Las Cruces turned out to be a great decision. We arrived early enough to catch a light lunch at a tiny, roadside taco place called Rosario’s. And boy, was that a treat. By this point in our trip we’ve consumed a lot of tacos, especially in Mexico. Yet the beef tacos we ate at Rosario’s were some of the absolute best tacos we’ve ever had. Each one was stuffed full of marinated beef, topped with fried onions, fresh cabbage and avocado salsa. We relished every bite.
At Rosario’s, a tiny taco stand, we enjoyed some of the best beef tacos of our trip - and we weren’t even in Mexico! Las Cruces, Dept of Sololá, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
We also discovered that the little, roadside hotel in the town of Las Cruces was another gem. The rooms appeared to be newly remodeled with fancy tile floors, all new bathrooms, and very comfy beds. It was the best roadside accommodation we’d had in quite a while.
A Washed-Out Bridge
Las Cruces and our next destination, the town of Patzún, lie at almost exactly the same elevation above sea level. But, this being Guatemala, that did not assure us a nice, flat day of cycling. Instead, our route plunged into a valley nearly 1,400 ft (425 m) below, then crawled its way back up onto another ridge. The descent out of Las Cruces was a screamer, with most of the elevation loss taking less than 10 minutes to complete. At the top of the precipice, our view across the Guatemalan Highlands was stunning.
A morning mist clung to the steep mountain slopes of the Guatemalan Highlands. Godínez, Dept of Sololá, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Patches of golden grass along the side of the road heralded the arrival of the dry season. Along Hwy RN-1, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
As we began the long climb out of the valley, we crossed a number of streams. Most of them were hardly noticeable, as we sailed across on the paved bridges. But not all of them.
About 1.5 hours into the ride we reached an area where a bridge had been washed out by a flood a number of years ago. For several hundred feet on both sides of the washout, the pavement had been stripped away, leaving a rough gravel surface. And at the bottom of the hill, the road headed straight across the stream.
Now, we’re not averse to the occasional stream crossing. We had become quite accustomed to wading across river beds - both wet and dry - while cycling on the Baja Divide bikepacking route. But there was one, very big difference. Nearly all of our river crossings over the years had been through relatively pristine, backcountry waters. Unfortunately for us, this stream looked very polluted. Its riffles were swathed in foam, icky blue-green algae grew thick in the still pools, and it smelled really bad. We wanted to find a way across that avoided contact with the water as much as possible.
There were a number of factors for us to consider. Stream beds can have all sorts of hazards that block passage, from deep water, to large rocks, to soft sand or mud that bogs you down halfway. Slick rocks have been known to topple cyclists crossing streams. In fact, we know of one cyclist who ended up in the hospital for an extended stay after breaking a hip in just such a situation. Plus, the thought of falling in this polluted water was particularly unappealing.
The bridge over the Río Los Chocoyos had washed out several years ago. Cars can drive across relatively easily, but the polluted water posed a bit of a challenge for us as cyclists. Along Hwy RN-1, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
We parked our bikes and studied the situation. Because the water was so muddy it was difficult to determine how deep the water was or what the surface was like on the bottom of the stream. As we were pondering our options, a guy in a pickup truck drove by and stopped to ask if we needed some help. Generously, he offered to let us throw our bikes in the back of his truck and take us across. But lifting our heavily-laden bikes onto a truck bed is more difficult than anyone expects, and there’s a risk of having something break in the process. So we declined his offer - perhaps not the smartest decision of the day.
It soon became clear that there was no way to walk our bikes across by rock hopping among the muddy sand bars. In the end, PedalingGuy just went for it and successfully rode his bike across. However, his skill in situations like this is somewhat above that of PedalingGal’s. She was not inclined to take the risk of riding and potentially tipping over into the smelly water. So she gamely took off her shoes and waded across the narrowest section she could find. It wasn’t ideal, but at least there were no disasters. She would thoroughly scrub her feet, legs and socks at the end of the day.
The rest of the day’s ride went smoothly as we made our way back up into the higher elevation pine forests. The roadsides were brightened by a dazzling array of late-season flowers.
Montane pine forests are one of the most extensive ecosystems throughout Central America. The trees provide welcome shade for cyclists. Along Hwy RN-1, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Clusters of bright flowers blanketed the margins of the road. Along Hwy RN-1, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
The Search for a Hotel Room
Over the course of long journeys by bike, one learns to be very flexible. We plan ahead, but we also are comfortable changing those plans on short notice. Many things can cause us to change our itinerary. Sometimes we feel great and decide to cycle further than planned for the day. Sometimes the weather, terrain, or interesting attractions along the way cause us to shorten a day’s ride. And very often, we will decide to linger in a nice location for an extra day or two longer than originally anticipated. So, if we can help it, we avoid reserving accommodations in advance. This isn’t much of a problem when wild camping, but it does have drawbacks when staying in hotels or popular campgrounds.
Fortunately, things work out for us the vast majority of the time. We’ve found that last-minute hotel rooms are fairly easy to secure in large cities and small towns (or even in roadside hotels without much of a town nearby). The biggest risks emerge in medium-large sized towns. In many areas, these towns serve as important commercial hubs for the surrounding countryside. And while they may have numerous hotels, each hotel often has just a handful of rooms. Thus, capacity can get stretched to the limit if there is a special event. We try to be alert for these cases and will even make the occasional reservation in advance if we’re particularly concerned. But the fact remains that nearly all the times when we’ve found ourselves out on the street after being turned away from several hotels, we were in one of these medium-large sized towns.
So it came to pass that as we approached the town of Patzún (pop. 26,650), we started to get a little nervous. The main road through town was crammed with vendors’ stalls, packed with bumper-to-bumper traffic, and crowded with pedestrians. We seemed to have arrived on market day. As we picked our way carefully among the chaos, it occurred to us that everyone for miles around might have come to the city to shop that day - and at least a few would probably try to stay in a hotel room. It looked like we might have some competition.
When we finally reached our target hotel and pulled our bikes into the small, quiet courtyard, it was a huge relief to be off the crazy roads. Consequently, it was a major disappointment when the receptionist told us that the hotel was full because they were hosting an event. They probably had only six rooms in total.
And so, the hunt for a hotel room began. We had a backup option already identified. So we quickly hustled over to option #2, which had looked quite nice online. But when we got there, all we found was a sign for a ‘sanitario’ which we gathered was some kind of health clinic.
Thinking we might just be in the wrong spot, we asked a guy on the street if he knew where the hotel was, but he just pointed us back to the clinic. Eventually a lady came out of the clinic to speak with us, and told us that the hotel was no longer in service. She kindly offered to make up a room for us anyway, if we needed it. But it seemed rather sketchy to take a makeshift room inside a health clinic. We had one more hotel we could try, so we thanked her and left.
Our final option was the Hotel Villa Linda on the far side of town. When we arrived Reina, the very outgoing proprietor, showed us the only two rooms she had available. The first one was right next to the very noisy highway, with paper-thin walls. Every car, truck and bus that rumbled by sounded like it was just inches away. The second room was tiny, with no space for the bikes. Unfortunately, we just didn’t feel like we’d get a good night’s rest there. So we parked our bikes in an alley next to the hotel, and started looking for other options. Meanwhile, Reina headed down the alley and disappeared into a side door.
A few minutes later she returned and announced that she had found another room for us. It was actually a room in her neighbor’s house. All they would have to do is move a couple beds into the room and we would be all set. It turned out to be just what we needed. It was not really a hotel room, but rather just an extra room in their home with a couple beds that they were able to add for us. The room was big, with pretty good wifi and a bathroom outside and down the hall. Even better, since it was down the alley and away from the main road, it would be fairly quiet. Reina had really gone the extra mile to find us a room, and we couldn’t thank her enough.
After a fruitless search for a hotel room, we landed in a very comfortable room in Pedro’s house, down this quiet alley. Patzún, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Later that afternoon we walked back into town, and were surprised to find that most of the vendors were already dismantling their stalls. What had been a madhouse of activity when we cycled through earlier in the day had become a quiet scene with hardly any shoppers remaining. One small, deserted plaza caught our eye. The sign nearby identified it as the ‘Public Tanks’, a public laundry area that was used for 140 years - finally closing in 2018. In fact, we had seen similar public wash areas still in use in a few of the smaller, surrounding towns.
The ‘Tanque Público’ (public tanks) were used for hand-washing clothes from 1878 to 2018. It was an essential service when few homes had running water. Similar tanks are still in use in more remote towns. Patzún, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
A Day for Dutch Cyclists
The next morning as we were making our final preparations to depart, the door to the Hotel Villa Linda opened and two other touring cyclists emerged. That’s how we met Jet and Geert, a couple from the Netherlands - looking a little bleary-eyed from trying to sleep in the room just inches from the road (the one that we had decided against the previous night).
They were on a 3-month trip from Costa Rica to Mexico City. This was one segment in a multi-year effort to cycle from Ushuaia (Patagonia) to Alaska - basically the reverse of our journey. Like hikers who complete the Appalachian Trail in segments over the course of many years, Jet and Geert were working their way across the Americas in 3-month installments. It was actually a pretty good strategy, since it allowed them to time their rides to take advantage of the best weather along each segment.
Dutch cyclists Jet and Geert, who we met just as we were getting ready to cycle toward Antigua. Patzún, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
We chatted with them for nearly half an hour. They were riding Santos bikes with Rohloff Speedhubs that had belts instead of chains (our Rohloffs have chains). PedalingGuy was a little envious. Although we really like our Rohloff Speedhubs, PedalingGuy has often remarked how, if he could do it again, he’d probably try to get bikes with belts. Chains are a constant maintenance headache. We also shared routing ideas since they were heading in the opposite direction from us and and had just arrived from Antigua. But eventually we had to hit the road, and said goodbye.
The ride from Patzún to Antigua was surprisingly easy. There was remarkably little climbing and we had a long descent into Guatemala’s former capital city. The hardest part of the day was bouncing along on the old cobblestone streets for the final, few miles into Antigua.
Before we had even settled in to our guesthouse, we met the second pair of Dutch cyclists for the day. Hendrik and Veronique were on a two week holiday in Guatemala, but had not brought their bikes with them. Nonetheless, they were avid cyclists - as everyone in Holland seems to be - and had a keen interest in our travels. Once again we spent a fair amount of time talking about cycling equipment. We also shared tales from our bike travels in Europe. It really was a delight to meet them as well.
Magical Antigua
The city of Antigua served as the capital of Guatemala for 230 years during the colonial period, until a devastating earthquake destroyed most of the buildings in 1773. That was actually the fourth major tremor to seriously damage the city, greatly straining Spain’s ability to keep rebuilding. So in 1776, despite strong opposition from the local population who wanted to rebuild once again, the Spanish crown decreed that the capital would be moved to the present day location in Guatemala City.
For the next 100 years Antigua remained something of a backwater, although determined residents did their best to maintain the town’s former beauty. It wasn’t until the 20th century that Antigua began to regain its stature, and eventually became a popular tourist destination because of its distinctly Central American charm. These days, the town virtually hums with activity from the many visitors who come to see its architectural gems and photogenic ruins from the past. If Guatemala had a ‘pueblo mágico’ program similar to Mexico’s, Antigua would surely be the crown jewel.
We spent the next couple of days hanging out in Antigua, wandering its palm-lined streets, and enjoying the vibrant mix of colorful Mayan and stately Spanish influences. Here are some photos from our time spent in Antigua:
The Santa Catalina Arch, with Volcán Agua (‘water volcano’) in the background is one of the most iconic images in all of Guatemala - probably because it really captures the mix of natural and man-made grandeur of the country. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Over at the central plaza, a wedding was taking place in the San José Cathedral. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
A gorgeous afternoon at the Plaza La Merced. Although this wasn’t the town’s central plaza, it was nearly as popular with locals who would come to grab some food from one of the stalls, or just to relax under the palms. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
The La Merced Church is probably the fanciest and best-preserved church in the city. The glowing white, baroque details on the pale yellow facade are dazzling. While we were there, a reunion for graduates from a ladies’ prep school was under way. Each class of women posed for a photo in front of the church, with a banner signifying their graduation year. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
As part of the reunion ceremony, a marching band from the school performed nearby. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Interesting characters seemed to be everywhere in Antigua.
A hat vendor with an astonishing skill for balancing stuff on his head chatted with a snack vendor selling bags of dried and salted nuts. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Everyone seemed to be able to carry large loads on their heads, without a second thought. We were very impressed that they could balance these loads while walking on the city’s famously uneven sidewalks, and through crowds of jostling pedestrians. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
A flute-maker demonstrated one of his instruments at a Christmas Market set up in the main plaza. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Most folks selling paintings set up shop in a specific location. Not this guy. He carried around his paintings, which seemed like a lot of work. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
A couple of vendors in traditional dress, taking a phone break in the main plaza. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Piles of colorful crafts and toys for sale, just in time for the upcoming Christmas holiday. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Two sentinels watch the world go by. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
An intimate glimpse into one of Antigua’s many churches. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
One thing that separates Antigua from other colonial-era towns is the large number of ruined buildings - mostly churches and convents - that remain partially standing throughout the city. The 1773 earthquake caused the big, stone and concrete domes of most of the churches to collapse. And in the aftermath of devastation, the townspeople focused their energy on rebuilding homes and businesses. About half of the big, old churches and monasteries have never been rebuilt. These days, the ruins are picturesque tourist attractions, and some of them are being restored just enough to make them safe to visit - but not to return to use as functional buildings. Wandering through Antigua’s streets, we encountered many of these icons of the past.
This public water fountain was surrounded by a gorgeous mural depicting people giving thanks for the water flowing out of the mountains, with a quetzal (Guatemala’s national bird) soaring overhead. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Interestingly, Antigua has taken historic preservation even farther than most of Mexico’s pueblos mágicos - including the interior of fast food restaurants. These are not ordinary fast food joints. The architecture inside was by far the most interesting we had seen for fast food anywhere. The McDonald’s was in a historic building with a huge, open-air courtyard and a dining area that encompassed about as much square footage as 6-7 normal McDonalds. It had beautiful tiled details, a small gallery of local art, several restored fountains and water features, and a wonderful view of one of the nearby volcanos - by far the largest and most interesting McDonald’s we have ever seen.
We discovered another wonderful, tiny restaurant run by a single chef. This one, called Picasso, had just two tables. The owner/chef was reputed to be a former Mayan shaman, although he looked rather Italian to us. We didn’t engage in any Mayan rituals. We just enjoyed a quiet dinner of delicious pasta and red wine. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Evening light in a quiet backstreet. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
On the second day, we hiked up to a popular overlook just north of town called the Mirador de la Cruz. The panorama from the viewing platform was fantastic. The compact city spread out below, with Volcán Agua (the ‘water volcano’) dominating the horizon to the south. It was also from the overlook that we got our first glimpse of the famous Volcán Fuego (the ‘fire volcano’) - one of Guatemala’s three, currently active volcanos. Approximately every 20 minutes it let out a big, white puff of ash that stood out against the bright, blue sky. It was a very cool sight.
View from the Mirador de la Cruz overlooking the city of Antigua, with Volcán Agua (the ‘water volcano’) in the background. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
We had a clear view of Volcán Fuego (the ‘fire volcano’) from the overlook. Approximately every 20 minutes, the active volcano let out a big puff of white ash. (The Acatenango Volcano rises to the right of Volcán Fuego, just behind the tree.) Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Let’s Climb Up for a Closer Look…
Long before arriving in Guatemala we had heard that you could hike up onto a dormant volcano (Acatenango) near Antigua for an up-close view of the adjacent, erupting Volcán Fuego. It certainly sounded like a fascinating experience, and it was something we were considering. But when the Dutch cyclists we met in Patzún had told us how much they enjoyed their trip up Acatenango, we decided it was definitely something we wanted to do. So soon after arriving in Antigua, we booked a backpacking trip up onto the volcano.
The hike to the summit of Acactenango is generally done over two days. The first day you hike up to a base camp, spending a cold night camping on the side of the mountain, then you hike back down the following day. This gives you a chance to have a close-up view of the neighboring Volcán Fuego erupting at night, when the glowing, molten rock is most visible. It also breaks up the very strenuous hike, which helps a lot. Our group included 23 guests and three guides.
The day began with a visit to a ‘supply center’ in a nearby town, where everyone was given a food box with all their meals for the two day trip. The boxes were a bit bulky, but surprisingly well-packed. The ingredients for each meal were pre-measured in their own plastic container, plus some fruit, silverware and a steel cup. For people who needed gear, this also was the place to rent supply items like winter coats, headlamps, gloves, etc. We would be climbing up to a fairly high elevation, so even at this latitude the temperatures were likely to get below freezing. Our bike trip has us prepared for all weather conditions. So we had all the gear we needed with us in our own backpacks, and didn’t need to rent any. Then it was off to the trailhead in a van.
Our volcano-climbing tour posed for a group photo before setting off on the trail. Acatenango Volcano Trailhead, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala.
We had heard in advance that the hike up to the base camp on Acatenango would be tough, and it certainly was. Every inch of the climb was very steep. The surface of the trail was often either very sandy or muddy, making the walk that much more challenging. And to top it off, the vast majority of our tour group was composed of very fit twenty-somethings, who kept up a pace that was a bit faster than we would have gone on our own.
Throughout the hike, the mountain was shrouded in a thick cloud, so there weren’t any views of the valleys below. The trees in the forest were damp, with drops of water falling off the leaves like a light rain. Acatenango Volcano Trail, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Every inch of the hike up the mountain was steep, and many sections were either sandy or muddy. Acatenango Volcano Trail, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
It was a happy moment when we saw the sign over the trail indicating we were getting close to the base camp. Acatenango Volcano Trail, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Luck was with us. Just as we approached the base camp at an elevation of 11,800 ft (3,600 m), the mist dissipated and we got our first, up-close glimpse of Volcán Fuego. Acatenango Volcano Base Camp, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
There are several companies that run tours to climb Acatenango, and each one has its own base camp perched on the steep upper slopes of the volcano, on the side that faces Volcán Fuego. They’re all pretty rustic operations, with simple cooking areas, very primitive toilets, and sleeping quarters that range from small wooden cabins (on the high end) to 4-season tents (on the low end). Our accommodations fell somewhere in the middle, using 3-person tents that had been pitched inside plywood cubby holes. There were thick, insulated mattresses inside the tents, and the open side of each nook was draped with a thick, plastic tarp to cut the wind. This was actually a pretty good arrangement for us, since we were given our own, private tent. And even in the sub-zero, nighttime temperatures, it was plenty warm inside our sleeping bags.
Wooden signs helped us get our bearings at the base camp - whether we were looking for the toilets or the area for human sacrifices. Acatenango Volcano Base Camp, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
This was our very rustic kitchen and dining area. From there, we had a perfect view of Volcán Fuego. Most of our time was spent hanging out at the cooking tent, watching and waiting for Volcán Fuego to erupt. Acatenango Volcano Base Camp, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
While we were there, Volcán Fuego erupted about once every half hour, sending a big plume of grayish-white ash shooting up into the sky. Then the ash would billow down the side of of the volcano’s cone in a slow-motion, churning cloud. We would often hear the distant, low-frequency rumble of the explosion. It was beautiful and exciting to be so close to the active volcano (only 1.5 miles away). Each time Volcán Fuego erupted everyone, including the guides, would stop what they were doing and watch the spectacle.
Eruption of Fuego Volcano, seen from our base camp on Acatenango Volcano, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
As evening waned, the temperature plummeted and we found ourselves layering on every piece of clothing we owned for a very puffy look. We enjoyed a beautiful sunset overlooking Volcán Fuego. Acatenango Volcano Base Camp, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Our dinner of spaghetti with veggie sauce was prepared over an open fire, using the ingredients that each one of us carried up the mountain in our food box. Acatenango Volcano Base Camp, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
As the temperature dropped towards nightfall, everyone huddled around the cooking fires in the kitchen tent. The fires helped keep us warm but they emitted a ton of smoke which was captured and accumulated under the tarp, scorching our lungs and completely permeating all our clothes. It was too bad the guys who built the tent didn’t have enough engineering prowess to design a structure that allowed the smoke to escape.
The fire in the cooking tent was a wonderful source of heat, but before long the air was heavy with smoke that seared our lungs. Acatenango Volcano Base Camp, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
The best time for watching Volcán Fuego erupt was right around sunset, and after dark. The colors of the sky at sunset were phenomenal. Once darkness fell we were able to see the fiery glow of the molten rock as it shot up from each eruption and poured down the sides of the nearby mountain. We were amazed by how bright the lava looked at night. It was hard to grasp why that glow was not visible during the daytime - but it was not. You have to be there at night to see the fire.
Although we were plenty warm inside our tent within the cubby hole (if not a bit hot), it was still a rough night. PedalingGuy went to bed suffering from an altitude headache - which was a bit of a surprise, since he’s always been immune to the effects of high elevations in the past. Plus, the wind whipped the thick plastic tarp covering our entrance, so that it made a loud flapping noise all night. And every so often, we would be awakened by the rumble of Volcán Fuego, accompanied by shaking earth, reminding us that we were sleeping rather close to an active volcano (not the most comforting thought). One starts thinking about all the people who have been killed on this mountain, when particularly large eruptions have wiped out whole villages. You start to consider whether this might not have been the smartest thing you have ever done. All of these factors ended up keeping us from having a restful sleep.
We arose just before dawn, to catch the sunrise. A wooden ladder allowed us to climb up onto the roof, where we joined a couple of other members of our tour group to welcome the new day.
Sunrise over Volcán Agua, surrounded by mist. Acatenango Volcano Base Camp, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Catching the first rays of sun in the morning, from the roof over our row of tents. Acatenango Volcano Base Camp, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
As the sun rose to our east, a nearly full moon dipped behind the mountain to the west. Acatenango Volcano Base Camp, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
It would be nice to say that we had a pleasant, relaxing stroll back down the mountain. But we didn’t. Breakfast was a bit chaotic, as our guides encouraged everyone to eat and pack up as quickly as possible. Then they hustled us out onto the trail around 8:15am, well before the 9am advertised departure time.
Then we raced down the mountain at a breakneck pace. All the twenty-somethings and PedalingGuy seemed to handle it okay. But PedalingGal had a hard time keeping up. The surface of the trail was just as loose and slippery as it had been on the way up, causing numerous falls among the hikers. It was too bad, because the weather was much more clear than it had been for the hike up the mountain, and there were some sweeping views. But there wasn’t any time to stop and enjoy them.
Charging down the mountain, on our way back to the trailhead. The weather had cleared, offering a few grand views of the valleys below. Acatenango Volcano Trail, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
It might have been worth the fast pace on the descent if we had been able to return to Antigua a lot earlier. But our shuttle van was not scheduled to pick us up until 11:30am. As a result, our group arrived at the end of the trail long before the bus did. We ended up waiting around by the side of the road for more than an hour before the shuttle van finally appeared to take us back to town.
Hanging out by the side of the road, awaiting our shuttle van ride back to Antigua. Acatenango Volcano trailhead, Dept of Chimaltenango, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
It was a very quiet ride back to town. More than half of the tour group fell asleep on the bus. When we arrived at the supply center where people could return their rented items, everyone got a complementary banana smoothie. After all that strenuous hiking, the smoothie was a fantastic treat.
The Holiday Season in Antigua
We spent another four days in Antigua. We’d actually planned to take just one more rest day after the hike up Acatenango. But the hike was incredibly strenuous, and used some very different muscles than the ones we use for cycling. Consequently, we were incredibly sore. After the hike up the volcano, our legs felt similar to having run a marathon (as noted by the one of us who has run 10 marathons). That was not ideal, considering that we still had more cycling to do in the Guatemalan Highlands. So we just kept extending our stay in Antigua, one day at a time, until we were fully recovered and ready to get back on the bikes.
It turned out to be a really fun time of year to be in Antigua. Once December arrived, Christmas celebrations got into full swing and everyone seemed to take part in the celebrations. The central plaza was transformed into a Christmas wonderland, complete with a holiday market, festive lights, and even a giant, sparkling ‘ornament’ where kids could go to sit on Santa Claus’s lap and tell him their Christmas wishes. On one evening, a parade carried Christmas princesses through the city on dazzlingly lit floats, followed by Santa on his reindeer-harnessed sleigh in a mist of fake snow.
Floodlights illuminated the old municipal building near the town’s central plaza. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Santa Claus took time to visit (and pose for photos) with a steady stream of children. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
A couple of friendly ‘giants’ taking a rest from their duties of participating in holiday parades. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
A marimba band serenaded the Christmas Fair. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
This ice cream vendor had an eye-catching look for his ice box. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Shooting stars twinkled over the avenue that runs through the Santa Catalina Arch. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Fireworks were a huge part of the holiday celebrations. Displays of fireworks happened every night of the week. Plus, the ear-splitting explosions of bombas (fireworks that sound like a cannon being fired) could be heard at random times throughout the day. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
A float full of Christmas princesses, waving as they pass by in one of the holiday parades. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Cycling Into Guatemala City
Antigua’s not a very big city, so it only took us about 15 minutes to ride across it, on our way out of town. But all of the streets are covered with very chunky cobblestones, which rattled our bones the whole way. Once we reached the western edge of the city we hit a smoother, paved road. But that’s also when the big ascent began. It’s not that far from Antigua to Guatemala City but, of course, there was a big, 2,000 ft (610 m) ridge in our way. Fortunately, any lingering soreness from the hike up the volcano didn’t seem to affect our cycling.
At the eastern edge of town we spotted this ominous statue. It turned out to be a literary reference. The inscription reads, “‘I would rather die than be disgraced,’ the secret motto used by The Nazarenes according to Pepe Milla.” Sr Milla was a notable 19th century, Guatemalan writer. And one of his most famous novels, Los Nazarenos, was set in Antigua. Antigua, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Along the 2.5 hr crawl up the mountain, we passed through the town of Santa Lucía Milpas Altas, where the local craft appeared to be brightly painted pots and ceramics. Otherwise, the scenery was composed of the typical roadside businesses that characterize urban areas.
Cheerful pots for sale along Hwy 10B. Santa Lucía Milpas Altas, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
A contented looking green iguana. Santa Lucía Milpas Altas, Dept of Sacatepéquez, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
At the top of the ridge we rode back onto the PanAmerican Highway, which we followed the rest of the way into Guatemala City. Immediately, the cycling became much more hectic, and the road more crowded with traffic. In the final 12 miles (19 km) things became downright crazy. The conventional wisdom among cyclists is that Guatemala City is to be avoided because of the crush of traffic, but we had to go there to get PedalingGuy’s cracked back rim repaired. Fortunately, we soon were descending off of the ridge, making the cycling a whole lot easier.
For about an hour and a half we cycled along increasingly congested roads, that turned from a two-lane, rural highway into giant boulevards with as many as eight lanes going in each direction. Whenever two big roads met, there was pandemonium as the cars from all those lanes tried to merge, without the benefit of any traffic controls. We had to stay on high alert. At one point we were on an eight lane highway when four lanes joined from our right putting us in the rather unenvious position of being in the middle of a massive highway. Luckily the vehicles entering from the right caused enough congestion that the traffic was moving very slowly. We were able skirt between the cars and make our way back over to the right-hand margin of the road.
Guatemala City is the center of political power, business and finance for the country. The metropolitan area (which includes contiguous, surrounding suburbs) is home to around 5 million people, which is nearly 30% of the country’s population. But what struck us most as we entered the city was the astronomical number of US fast food restaurants along our route. We passed at least three McDonald’s, a half dozen Wendy’s, multiple Taco Bells, and many other chain restaurants as well.
With just a few miles to go, we finally turned north off of the PanAmerican Highway, and into the bustling heart of the city. But instead of getting even more crazy, the cycling was suddenly pleasant and calm. We had turned onto a dedicated bicycle path that runs down the center of the city’s main boulevard, Avenida Reforma. Large trees shaded our route, we were fully protected from the traffic, and the stress of the past hour melted away. It was fantastic.
On the bike path near our hotel we met Julio, a local cyclist who told us he was always eager to stop and say ‘hi’ to anyone who looked like they were traveling through by bicycle. Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Five Days in Guate
We spent the next five days exploring Guatemala City (or ‘Guate’ as locals call it), while a local bike shop re-built PedalingGuy’s back wheel - which had developed hairline cracks around a number of spots in the rim where the spokes were attached.
Guate is really huge, so there were plenty of things to see and do. The metropolitan area, which includes the contiguous developed suburbs, is actually the biggest city in Central America by a large margin. The next metropolitan area on the list, Panama City, has only 2/3 as many people.
We thoroughly enjoyed Guate’s eclectic mix of quirky, urban charm and historic landmarks.
The Peace Monument was the central feature of a plaza near where we stayed. The sculpture in the fountain depicts two hands with a dove of peace, and was created to commemorate the 1996 peace accords that brought an end to 36 years of civil war in the country. Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
We got a kick out of this sign on an old hotel that had seen better days. At one time it probably was a pretty nice feature that the hotel had a PBX and a Fax. Imagine that! Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Having suffered through no less than four unplanned dental visits in three different countries on this trip alone - PedalingGuy was particularly intrigued to learn that there is a patron saint for dentists (Santa Apolónia). Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Busking for donations was common in Guate, and we saw a number of folks performing at road intersections for cars that were waiting for the light to change. These acrobats were some of the most entertaining and energetic. Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
The Cathedral of Santiago is Guate’s most important church, standing on one side of Constitution Plaza. The onion domes atop the two massive bell towers, and the dome over the altar, are tiled in a sky blue color, reminiscent of the color of Guatemala’s national flag. Guatemala City, Guatemala. Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
One of the most important images inside the Cathedral of Santiago is the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception. A steady stream of worshipers knelt to pray near the image, just a couple of days before her feast day (8 December). Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
We passed this fanciful church several times, and it always caught our attention. Photos don’t do it justice. It’s actually a private, Catholic Church that was built by a local family between 1927-1941 to give thanks for their survival of an earlier earthquake. The carved stone details are amazing, including the bell towers that actually get wider near the top, before tapering into ornate steeples. Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
All Set With The New Rim
As mentioned earlier, a key reason we spent an extended break in Guatemala City was because we needed to replace the rim on PedalingGuy’s rear wheel. All of the pounding while carrying a heavy load caused hairline fractures to appear in his original rim, in the spots where several of the spokes were attached. While a hassle to fix, this type of rim failure is apparently pretty common on bikepacking trips. PedalingGuy’s back tire bears the most weight of all of our tires, so it was not too surprising that it was the first to go.
But the 40mm rims we ride on are almost impossible to find in Latin America. So we ended up having a rim shipped from the USA to a bike shop in Guatemala City, called Cycle Works, that had been recommended by other cyclists. The rim (plus some extra wide rim tape we had also pre-ordered) arrived a couple of days ahead of us. When we got to Guate, the first thing we did was remove PedalingGuy’s back wheel and take it to the shop.
The staff at Cycle Works were really professional, and had the new wheel built in four days. Special thanks to Jorge Arriola (the manager) and Emerson Solis (the mechanic) who took very good care of us and the wheel. The spokes were properly tensioned, the lacing of the spokes was correct, and the wheel was true. It even looked stunning after they had cleaned off all the grit and grease that had accumulated over time. We were very happy with the results, and hope/expect that this rim will last another 15K miles (24K km).
That evening we took a long walk to Constitution Plaza, the central plaza in the city, to see the big Christmas Fair that would run throughout December. There were Christmas lights everywhere. Shops and street vendor stalls overflowed with toys and gifts. And the streets were crowded with locals out enjoying the festivities.
A pop-up Christmas market along a pedestrian alley. Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Action-figure toys on display, to lure in customers looking for that perfect gift. Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Christmas lights on a city municipal building. Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
Nearly every public space, and many businesses, displayed a brightly-lit Christmas tree. Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
The lights on this obelisk in a traffic roundabout changed colors constantly among red, green, white and gold. Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
This didn’t seem to be a formal parade. A group of folks just formed their own Christmas marching band, and entertained shoppers along the main pedestrian street. Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
A department store, lit up for the holiday. Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
In Constitution Plaza, the city had constructed a huge fair with carnival rides, food stalls, photo spots with Christmas themes, a Santa taking Christmas wishes, a tubing ramp with fake snow, and even an ice skating rink! Yes, they somehow managed to freeze enough ice for skating even though the temperature was well above freezing. Well, it almost worked. There was a puddle of water covering most of the surface of the ice.
But what was more entertaining for us was that although a huge number of of people donned ice skates and entered the rink, very few of them seemed to know how to skate. There were three or four people skating gracefully through the center of the rink. But another fifty or more people formed a line that inched slowly into the rink while clinging for dear life to the barrier along the edge, trying their best not to slip and fall onto the wet ice. Clearly, this was the first time most of them had been on ice. They never let go of the barriers the whole time we were there, pulling theirselves one inch at a time around the edge of the rink. Do you get to say you went ice skating if you never let go? Granted, the penalty for falling was greater than normal given the significant film of water covering the ice. It was hilarious to watch. At least they were gung-ho to give it a try!
The Christmas Fair included a large ice skating rink. Lots of people donned skates to give it a try, but the vast majority of them inched out onto the ice while clinging to the barrier along the side, trying not to slip and fall. You can see them gathered along the barrier on the far side of the rink in this photo. We did not stay long enough to see whether they eventually made it all the way around the rink (once). Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.
We had a great time hanging out in Guatemala City in December. Everyone really embraced the spirit of the holidays, and seemed to be looking forward to a full month of celebrating. It was fun to join them.
Ready for the Christmas holiday. Guatemala City, Guatemala. Copyright © 2019-2023 Pedals and Puffins.